Fortified wine and I have a checkered history that runs way back to my young (stupid) days. See, we discovered pretty early that you get get more bang for buck buying fortifieds than by buying beer. Understand that this was drinking for one reason only, to get drunk, there was certainly no taste involved and certainly no decorum! And it was cheap too; 3 litre casks of port for about $5, bottles of muscat for about $3, this was powerful drink at dirt cheap prices. I suppose you can guess the outcome, almost everyone has a similar story in their history, as I got over this stage of my life I found that I could no longer enjoy fortifieds and as such avoided them for many (many, many,) years. Fast forward from stupid young drunk to mature wine appreciator (like I said, many years) and I found myself cycling around Rutherglen stopping at various wineries and having a great old time and FINALLY got to taste a GOOD fortified. I was sold on the spot and cursing the (many) wasted years in between I have since developed a deep love for good Tokay.
Not knowing much at all about Tokay, or fortifieds in general, I have found the Rutherglen classification system a usefull guide to determining where a certain type of Tokay fits into the hierarchy. Basically this grading slots a Tokay (or Muscat) into one of four levels:
- Rutherglen - Average age 2-5 years, inexpensive, fresh (dare I say consumer level) wine
- Classic - Aged in barrel (5-10 years), richer and beinning to show some complexity
- Grand - Aged 10-15 years, more intense & more concentrated
- Rare - 20+ years, fully developed "these are wines of breathtaking complexity, texture and depth of flavour" .

"Liquid Gold" is graded as a 'Classic', so the second level of the scale; I've also tried 'Grand' rated Tokays (never had a 'Rare') but across the Tokays and all the levels of the scale that I've tried, I rate Campbells Classic Rutherglen Tokay ("Liquid Gold") as my personal favorite. This Tokay maintains a deep golden brown color and has a lovely viscous feel in the glass. Strong aromas of toffee and honey with citrus and tea leaf. To taste this wine is a delight, it is thick, rich and sweet, wonderfully intense. Powerful mouth filling flavours of toffee and malt leaving a clean, slightly acidic, mouth smacking finish. Does this sound like a good rap; it should be as I just love this wine.
In other tasting notes for this wine I have seen the term '
rancio' and I must admit that I had no idea what it meant so in prep for writing this entry I had a quick look for some of the descriptors. Along the way I found a really good description of the
process used in making some of these fortifieds on Wikipedia. Without regurgitating Wikipedia I suggest that you have a quick read (I found it interesting). Understanding the process makes it easier to understand the claim from Campbells that "the wine that provides the basis of this blend dates back to the 1950's", part of this blend dates back to the 50's, this just blows my mind. Dip into history and do your taste buds a favour over your next desert, grab a great Tokay from Rutherglen.
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