Sunday, July 30, 2006

Grand Ridge Moonshine

I've been abused, I've been treated badly, I’ve been ridden hard and put away wet, it’s just not a pretty sight this morning and its all the fault of the chaps at the Grand Ridge Brewery and their damnable Moonshine. A couple Old Bastards got together last night with the aim to have some really nice wines, I had grabbed a Reschke Bos, a wine I really enjoy and I was quite looking forward to it. But then I had some Moonshine!

This is a big beer in every sense of the word it smells big, it tastes big, it has a BIG alcohol content and it kicks like a Mallee bull. Moonshine is a dark malty beer in the Scotch Ale style and pours as dark as the devils armpit. It has a great big head which I found held on for ages before finally settling to a thin lace (which I really like). The aromas are all malt, caramel and a hint of sweetness, some dark berry fruit perhaps. This is quite a heavy beer with big rich mouth filling malt, treacle and caramel flavors that linger pleasantly. The high alcohol content is noticeable, may be just a little too much as it distracts you from how good this beer tastes.

In the wrap up, I really enjoyed the Grand Ridge Moonshine and had quite a few. I would approach it with a little caution though as at 8.5% it does provide a significant kick, especially if you treat it like a ‘normal’ beer. What’s a little scary is that those madmen at Grand Ridge also brew a Supershine which I believe weighs in at about 11%, it sounds like a hangover waiting to happen. Well done Grand Ridge, it's a great beer.

We had the Moonshine with a good stinky blue cheese, perfect match. I'm going to go lay down now and have a nap and see if I can get over the damage!

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Friday, July 28, 2006

Hargreaves Hill Porter

Tonight I have another beer from one of my local micro breweries at Steeles Creek in the Yarra Valley, the Hargreaves Hill Porter. Ages ago I blogged about the Pale Ale from the same brewery and as I recall I was pretty impressed, I know that I chased this beer down a couple of times since so I was keen to give the Porter a run as well.

The Porter pours medium to dark brown, thick and viscous, definitely a dark ale. No real head and very poor retention but it maintains a thick lace. Rich aromas of chocolate, coffee and licorice. The Porter has a slightly astringent mouth feel, I get the impression that the carbonation lets this beer down a little, it sounds dumb but it feels 'grainy', a bit fizzy? The beer has a pleasant bitter flavour with nice malts showing.

Hargreaves Hill Porter is a nice change of pace; it's not unpleasant at all and really quite drinkable but that said Im far from overwhelmed. I get the impression that this beer would be much better from the tap than from the bottle.

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Wednesday, July 26, 2006

James Squire Hop Thief Ale

To date my experience with the Malt Shovel Brewery has been via the James Squire Brewhouse in Melbourne. I generally go in there with all sorts of good intentions to try to remember the beers and invariably by the time I leave I'm lucky to remember my name. I've managed to avoid this problem by picking up an MSB beer in stubby form and tonight I'm going to review the James Squire Hop Thief Ale.

Pours clear, lightish amber/orange with a very light carbonation and a nicely formed head. The head does not hold for too long but leaves a very nice lace once it settles. The beer has a very nice hoppy aroma with light fruity notes, citrus and passionfruit. The beer delivers with strong hops, perhaps a little sweet and leaves a pleasant not to bitter after taste. I was a bit surprised that I didnt get any of the fruity citrus in the flavour given the smell of this beer, this is not a criticism, more an observation.

Overall this is an excellent beer, I was really impressed with it and would certainly get some more. It's going to sound wanky, but this, to my mind, is a real beer drinkers beer, its a great example of what a straight up and down good beer should taste like. It delivers oodles of flavour without being overpowering or stodgy, the mild carbonation means that you can have quite a few before getting the heavy over bloated feeling that comes with more commercial products.

The Hop Thief Ale is however a limited release beer so I would expect that it will not be available forever. Get on out and grab a couple now and remind yourself what a good beer tastes like.

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Monday, July 24, 2006

Can we really tell it like it is?

A sticky issue has been blogged over at Appellation Australia dealing with winery bully boy tactics and touches on the ability of the individual to provide objective review on the internet. It makes an interesting read, especially if you write reviews on someone elses product. My question though is why dont we see this happening more often in the mass media?

I guess this is something that 'professional' writers have experienced for years, but if you look at the mainstream media, negative reviews are few and far between. I know that out of the mass media that I consume about wine it is very rare to see wine scores less than 80/100, in fact in a quick flick though my back issues I dont see anything less than 84. So does this mean that the mass media is just exceptionally lucky with their selection of products to review; unlikely! Could it be that mass media reviews that do not meet a certain level are just not published, I suppose that is possible. Could it be that ultimately the mass media has lost its objectivity in its attempts to support the products that are its means for existence? Never having worked in mainstream media or journalism I'm unlikely to ever know. Whatever the case may be, it concerns me that I exchange hard earned cash for what I thought might be an unbiased source of information to find out that the information may be effected from external sources. I think its time that the mainstream media took a look at online world to refresh themselves on what an objective opinion looks like.

So, where does that leave the independent reviewer I wonder? This sort of action is something that I would expect to hear about in the USA but I am surprised to see it happening here in Australia. I know I sound all 'holier than thou' so I guess its time for me to wake up and smell the coffee and realise this sort of crap happens everywhere. For the record I dont agree with the approach that the winery in question has taken in addressing the issue, I also think that Cam, the reviewer, has presented his review in the form of an opinion, which he is entitled to have. I wish Cam well and hope the matter resolves itself to both parties satisfaction.

For my part, I believe that I provide ONE opinion on any product that I review and with all opinions your mileage may vary. I like some things & I dislike others; just because I dislike this wine or that beer does not mean its crap or that you wont enjoy it. Case in point, VB green cans, for me they taste like sweat squeezed from old gym socks but MILLIONS of people all over the country LOVE VB and drink it exclusively. Try it for yourself and form your own opinion.

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Saturday, July 22, 2006

Beez Neez Honey Wheat Beer

Back to Matilda Bay and to be honest I'm starting to think that it may be one of my final visits. WAY back in 'the day' I used to really enjoy the Red Back that Matilda Bay produced and it has been a really long time since I've had any beers from this brewery. Recently I tried the Bohemian Pilsner and was pretty much under whelmed but prepared to give them another go. Tonight I've selected the Beez Neez Honey Wheat Beer.

I’m not usually a fan of flavoured beers though I seem to keep getting them for tasting, I think it’s the ‘something new’ syndrome. On the reviews on these pages I’ve already reviewed a Peach Ale and also another Honey Wheat. The concept of honey in beer intrigues me but I think that its something that could actually be quite nice if its done properly. I guess I’m yet to see it done properly!

The Beez Neez pours very slightly cloudy, medium gold/yellow with very little head. It holds a little lace and is very mildly carbonated. The beer has a very strong honey smell (surprise surprise) perhaps a little nutty. Distinctive wheat beer flavours with only very mild burnt honey but unfortunately there is no body to the beer, it is disappointingly thin. Finishes quickly, perhaps a little bitter but no real aftertaste.

In summary, I’m not a big fan; the beer is at best average. Its not unpleasant but its not distinguished in any way, it really doesn’t have anything to recommend it. Beez Neez is an oddity in the market but I think that its shelf presence has more to do with the big company marketing machine than the quality of the product.

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Friday, July 21, 2006

Mr Riggs Shiraz Viognier 2004

It's a generalisation true, but Australians love Shiraz, they obsess about it. They love it big and bold and they chuck it back like mothers milk and as such Shiraz is the most widely planted variety in Australia. Recently Australian consumers have been able try something just that little bit different in the form of the blended Shiraz Viognier.

Ben Riggs has received a great deal of press in recent years to the point where he seems to have the golden boy aura completely locked down to the point where he can do no wrong. And really, who am I to argue; I love Bens wines and I particularly enjoy his various Shiraz-Viognier blends. By my count there are at least 3 Shiraz-Viognier blends with Ben Riggs finger prints on them and they span several price points. The wonderfully named "Black Chook" SV at $17, the "Zontes Footsteps" S-V at $15 and finally the Mr Riggs label weighing in at $25. Tonight I'm tasting the Mr Riggs Shiraz Viognier (2004).

This Shiraz Viognier is totally opaque purple in colour. The Viognier shines through in the bouquet and really lifts the wine with velvety fruity smells, black current, blackberry, apricot and cherry. In the mouth the wine has a big round & full feel but without the heavy tannin bite of an unblended Shiraz. Again juicy fruity flavors show through with pepper and spice undertones. The wine lingers nicely with a pleasant, not to sweet, not to bitey after taste.

All in all a very nice wine, the lifted Viognier opens up the range of this wine to a wider audience and takes Shiraz away from the steak and chips set. That said Shiraz Viognier blends are not for everyone and will certainly generate a derisive sniff from the BIG Shiraz devotees. I say bugger the Shiraz snobs and get into this blend, I certainly recommend the Mr Riggs S-V but if you are unsure and want to dip the toe in the water first try the Black Chook (its a cracker).

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Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Late Harvested Orange Muscat & Flora

Brown Brothers is another winery about which I have mixed feelings. It is entrenched firmly on the tourist route on the snow road at Milawa and over the years I have watched it develop and add many new elements to the winery. The grounds were improved, the tasting rooms moved and expanded and the Epicurian centre was added. The winery as a day out is a great destination on a day trip though some stunning foodie country. BB's has enjoyed comercial success and is a very recognisable brand for the average wine consumer however I've never really enjoyed the wines a great deal. That said, wherever I go there is always at least one wine that takes my fancy and at Brown Bothers its the Late Harvested Orange Muscat & Flora.

As you would expect, the wine is a very attractive golden colour as is the general nature of late harvested varietals. The smell of the wine is just magnificent, an explosion of fruit, citris and blossom with honey notes that hint at just how good its going to taste. The Orange Muscat & Flora tastes wonderful, lucious fruits, citrus and apricot burst through everything and there is an underlying honey/raisin finish. While we expect the wine to be sweet it does manage to deliver without being overpowering. You really need to chill this wine, it is a very nice experience to start a glass of this wine really cold and enjoy the different flavour charachteristics that develop as the wine loses its chill. My one word of warning though, dont let it warm to much as it will have a tendancy to become cloying.

It's not understated, its not subtle and it's probably not a classic in any sense of the word but bugger me it does taste great. This is a memorable wine by any measure and I would not hesitate to recommend this wine as a closer to an evening. It's would also be a nice wine to use to introduce novice or occasional wine drinkers to the joys of dessert wine.

Food: Good vanilla Icecream

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Monday, July 17, 2006

Baileys of Glenrowan - 1998 Shiraz

As a general rule the average wine punter learns very quickly that each region becomes known for a particular style of wine, and this is a rule of thumb that tends to guide our wine purchases. For example, if we want a decent Cabernet Sauvignon we look to the wineries of the Coonawarra. Its a handy rule if you don’t really know (or care) to much about wine but want to be able to blag your way through a wine list.

With this in mind, lets play the word association game.
Barossa Valley --> Shiraz
Clare Valley
--> Riesling
Coonawarra --> Cab Sav
Hunter Valley
--> Semillon
Glenrown / Rutherglen --> ???????

So, hands up if the first thing that jumped to mind for Glenrowan/Rutherglen was Fortifieds? It is for me, if I want a good Port or Tokay I know exactly where to look first. Its not really until you get up into this sub area of the North Eastern Victorian wine region that you realise that the area produces some great examples of big red table wines as well. The trick is to catch them at the right time, too young and many of the Shiraz & Duriff varietals are just way to big and astringent; given a bit of time to get through their youth and these wines really begin to develop into some wonderful examples of their types.

Tonight, I've opened a bottle of a 1998 Shiraz from Baileys of Glenrowan. This is a rare pleasure for me and I've really enjoyed the fact that at least half the bottle has been left for me to enjoy as I write this review. This Shiraz is very deep dark purple/black in the glass, very inviting. On the nose there are lovely fruit characteristics of smokey plum and blackberry with oaken notes, its really quite a simple and straight forward bouquet. Sweet & juicy in the mouth with warm velvety tannins providing a lingering pleasant finish, the wine is very open and approachable right now. This is not a big Shiraz and is starting to show signs of mellowing out nicely, in fact I'd suggest that it may be coming to its best over the next couple of years.

The beauty of wines like this is that you can pick them up relatively cheaply. With patience and some will power you can sit back in a few years with a smug & knowing smile and blow the doors of your mates with some really spectacular wines. Give it some thought.

Food: Standard Shiraz fare - Steaks, roast meats, BBQ that sort of thing

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Saturday, July 15, 2006

Little Creatures Bright Ale

Jeez those 'Sandgropers' can really make a good beer, they really can. A while back I wrote some notes on the Little Creatures Pale Ale and at the time I recall I was pretty stunned. The smell of the Pale Ale just jumped up and down and demanded attention and from the get-go I was hooked, the Little Creatures Pale Ale became my favorite beer. So its with some saddness that I report that in my taste stakes the Pale has been replaced, I have a new love, a new fave, a new subject for my beer-ry adoration, and bugger me if its not by the same brewery! Enter (stage left) the new entry from Little Creatures Brewing, the Bright Ale.

Strange beer to pour, very little head (like my life!), not really frothy at all and whats there tends to fade pretty fast. Its a beautiful beer in the glass, dark gold (dare I say bright?) with very little bead, filtered and very clear. If you have read my last review of a Little Creatures beer it should come as no surprise that this one also smells divine; its hard to explain but it is wonderful; citrus, hops and perhaps something spicy with some honey... perhaps? The ale is very light, almost soft on the palate and has a very mild bitterness that carries a lovely long malty flavour. The hops provide a lingering though not overly long dry tang in the aftertaste. All in all it lives up to is 'very approachable' tag in the company advertising.

From what I can make out the Bright Ale is pretty new and was released during May of this year. I dont know how its going to go in the market but I hope for LCB's sake that it makes a big splash. That said, I suppose I dont much care too much just so long as my local bottle shops keep stocking it. The Bright Ale is a beer that I could drink all night (and probably will), its just that damn good.

Stop reading, go buy some beer.....NOW.

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Matilda Bay Hand Crafted Bohemian Pilsner

If brews were judged purely on the style of the bottle and the design of the label the Matilda Bay Bohemian Pilsner would be a sure fire winner. I've cruised a few other reviews on this beer and there are a few negatives about the packaging but to me I think the product looks great. It really called out to me and was the first beer from a batch new beers that I bought that I've opened up tonight. Still, as they say, the proof of the pudding...

In the glass the beer is lovely deep rich gold with a very prevalent bead. The beer pours with a great head that really holds on. It smells very attractive, clean and inviting, tinged with malt and hops. The beer is really (really!) bitter to my taste and while others will disagree it really is a bit much to my taste. Once I get past the bitterness there is a slight sweetness back there. The beer dosnt seem to last though and finishes watery and a bit weak.

In the final wash up I'm not a huge fan of this beer; I wont be rushing back to get more of the Bohemian Pilsner. I will be grabbing a few more MB beers over the next few weeks and I hope that I find something else that sparks my intrest. I picked up this beer at Dan Murphys where it was selling for $2.99 a bottle. You can find out more about the Matida Bay Brewing Company at http://www.matildabay.com.au/.

Saturday, July 08, 2006

2003 Jamiesons Run Coonawarra Cab Sav

Your own 'house wine' is a personal thing. You have to strike that balance between quality and price; the more well heeled can afford to throw a few more shekels at their house red, the rest of us have to be a little more frugal. The occasional red drinkers can afford to save up for that occasional bottle; the regular wine drinkers need to find something that they they can drink regularly. In my house I have a number of tried and true house reds, not necessarily the first thing I open when we have company, but these are the bottles that I open when I'm having a quiet one at home. At the moment, my standout favorite is the 2003 Jamiesons Run Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon.

A few opening comments. This label is one of the low rung volume mainstays of one of the big wine conglomerates; I wont promote which one and in any case I'd probably be wrong as I'm lead to believe the company keeps getting bought up by bigger companies! Anyone who reads my notes (is there ANYONE out there?) may recognise that I have a bit of a problem with the big wine companies in Australia however I'm hoping that I might get a bit of latitude for this review. When you are shopping for a good drop at this price point it really doesn't pay to have too many scruples and in reality it is only really the power of the big companies that can bring a wine like this to market at this price point. It's ultimately a volume wine; one designed to be bought and drunk immediately and since we are trying to find a good drinking, readily available and reasonably priced product we will buy from anyone.

SO the wine then; what's it like; is it any good? I've drunk many many better wines than the Jamiesons Run Cabernet Sauvignon, but not too many of them at this price. In fact in this bracket (with local price fluctuations) I struggle to find too many competitors. That's not to say that there are not other good wines of this type in this bracket, but the JR Cab Sav is the one that I keep coming back too. The wine has powerful berry characters (blackberry & mulberry) driving it and perhaps some vanilla though I could be getting wanky here. On the palate the wine is not huge but has very pleasant and smooth feel and again the berry characteristics with well balanced oak show through. Mild to soft tannins give this wine a little grip but I've found that this does have a tendency to soften quickly if the wine is given some time to breathe.

The Jamieson Run Cab Sav varies in price from between $11 & $16, down to $10 if you buy by the case. If you can find this wine at the bottom end of this spectrum its an absolute steal, snatch it up. Grab a few for a stay at home drink and enjoy. My last purchase was a couple of single bottles from Dan Murphys where I paid $11 a bottle. Tonight its going down with a slow cooked lamb shank soup and crusty bread.

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

2004 Yering Station Pinot Gris

I love the Yarra Valley....I love going out there especially in Winter; I love finding all the great eating places; I love hunting through all the wineries, its just a great place and I cant get enough of it. Living so close though and getting out there as much as I do I find that I tend to steer clear of the big name 'touristy' places and tend to head for the lesser known venues. However when I have guests and I want to give them the canned tour of the area I do tend to stray back to the big wineries though more for their impact than anything else. Some of the big Yarra Valley wineries have done an excellent job in building a tourist infrastructure so much so that a visit can become an event. The master of this transformation in the valley is Yering Station just outside of Yarra Glen.
I have struggled with Yering Station in the past, its such an excellent facility and makes for a great place to visit; the team out there does so much right. The restaurant is great, its a wonderful location with beautiful grounds, you can browse though different exhibitions in the tasting rooms and you can guts out on local produce. Unfortunately though I have never really switched on to the wines; I always seem to be a bit disappointed. There have been some really great exceptions to this observation; I loved the 2004 Yarra Valley Sav Blanc and there was a Cab Sav vintage about 2000 that I also really enjoyed. While its likely to have more to do with my crude pallet than the products themselves, apart from these couple of exceptions I have often missed the WOW factor in the Yering Station wines. Unfortunately this is where I find myself again tonight.
The 2004 Yering Station Pinot Gris is a very bright, pale/light straw color, it looks lovely. On the nose this wine is very much what I would expect of a PG; high, floral & fruit aromas that really open up in the glass after a few minutes; it really is a pleasant wine to smell. I tend to think I might be drinking this a tad cold as I found the nose to get REALLY big after it shook of the chill from the fridge. In the mouth the wine is lightly acidic and mildly fruity, perhaps apple and citrus. Its mild and that’s probably what I don’t like; the wine wants me to drink and enjoy and then move on. Its not something I’m going to remember; its not a wine that I’m going to take a mental note of to rush back to get more. Its a nice wine, it will go well with many dishes, it wont offend anyone...its safe!
After tasting & reviewing this wine I was surprised to see a couple of local respected wine writers rate this wine quite highly. That really says to me that you should at least give this wine a go; I'm a hack with my own particular tastes and your mileage may vary. If nothing else, get out to Yering Station if you are in Victoria on the wine circuit and have a taste. I highly recommend that you time your visit with the Farmers Market that runs once a month at the winery. After you taste your way through the extensive wine list you can guts your way through some great local produce. Finish off the market with a chilli buffalo sausage with onions....its fat boy heaven.